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Bangkok, Thailand
Overview - Business Etiquette - City Statistics - Culture - Excursions - Further Distractions - Getting Around - Getting There By Air - Getting There By Rail - Getting There By Road - Key Attractions - Money - Nightlife - Restaurants - Shopping - Sightseeing - Special Events - Tours of the City
OverviewLove it or hate it, buzzing, sweaty,
exotic Bangkok is a city that really is larger than life. For some, the
frenetic pace,
heat,
traffic and lack of
personal space can be overpowering and are good reasons to pass through the city as quickly as possible but, for many others, the sheer
dynamism is intoxicating.
A curious blend of the
traditional East with the
modern West, Bangkok’s every street has a surprise in hold for the visitor.
Ramshackle buildings crouch next to
exotic temples surrounded by
delightful gardens, which are in turn overlooked by modern hotels and offices.
Bangkok has emerged as a
major world city with the traffic jams to match, as well as the all-pervasive mobile phones and designer clothes that are a prominent feature on the streets.
The chaos on the roads is mirrored by the busy traffic on the
Chao Phraya River, which dissects the city and is regularly crisscrossed by long-tailed boats, river taxis and small rowing boats, all miraculously missing each other.
But
traditional Thai life is never very far away. Weaving among the nose-to-tail traffic in the morning rush hour,
saffron-robed monks can still be seen collecting alms, while just moments from the city centre whole communities live in
stilt houses by the river, eking out a living using skills that have not changed in centuries.
In 1782, Bangkok became the
capital of what was then
Siam, following the destruction of the previous capital, Ayutthaya. Bangkok is not the name used by the Thais - they call it Krung Thep, which is actually a very shortened version of its extremely long full title.
The absolute rule of the monarchy ended in 1932 when it was replaced by a system of
constitutional monarchy. To this day, the monarchy is regarded with almost religious
reverence and it is an offence, punishable by imprisonment, to insult the royal family. His Majesty
King Bhumibol is the longest-reigning monarch in the world, having come to power in 1946.
Following the end of absolute monarchy, Thailand moved towards
democracy, but this has been thwarted by the
military, which has often staged coups in protest at government policies. The most recent was in September 2006 when a
bloodless coup overthrew the Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra and replaced him with an interim prime minister until elections finally took place in December 2007.
Thailand has successfully survived the economic crisis of the late 1990s, dealing with
SARS, the devastating
Tsunami in December 2004 and the
Avian influenza crisis more recently.
Thailand is staunchly
anti-Communist, as seen during the Vietnam War when it was a strategic ally for the USA. Latterly, it has softened its stance and relations have improved with its Communist neighbours who have now become members of the Association of South East Asian Nations (
ASEAN), of which Thailand is an influential member.
Thailand’s
main industries are
tourism,
textiles and
electronics. Despite over half of Thai citizens working in
agriculture, it only accounts for 15% of the GDP, although Thailand is still the world’s largest exporter of rice. The difference in growth between industry and agriculture during the past few decades has resulted in
enormous inequality between the city and countryside.
Thailand is a tropical country so it is hot throughout the year, but the
best timeto visit is between November and March, during the
dry season. During the
rainy season, humidity is very high and the downpours are short but violent and the streets of Bangkok often flood.
Business EtiquetteMost senior businesspeople in large or international companies will speak English, but it is not common in smaller companies. It is essential to make appointments for business meetings and to exchange business cards. Punctuality is also very important (although the visitor is quite often likely to be kept waiting after arrival), so the Bangkok traffic must be taken into consideration when going to appointments. Thai hosts are quite likely to give small gifts to visitors, so it is a good idea to reciprocate with a typical national gift of one’s own. Visitors should never get angry or raise their voice if things are not going according to plan, as this will mean the loss of face on both sides. Much more progress will be made by remaining calm.
Meetings often take place over lunch and these are generally held in a Thai restaurant. Thai businesspeople are quite formal in their dress but, because of the extreme heat, it is quite acceptable and practical to dispense with the wearing of a suit jacket. Office hours are usually 0800-1700 Monday to Friday. There is a large expat community in Bangkok, as well as a big after-work drinking scene.
Introduction
LocationCentral Plain, Thailand.
Dialling code66.
Population7 million (city); 10 million (metropolitan area).
Time zoneGMT + 7.
Electricity220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temperatures26°C (79°F).
Average July temperatures29°C (84°F).
Annual rainfall1,500mm (58.5 inches).
IntroductionBangkok has many traditional dance and theatre groups, which perform around the city, although nowadays they are more popular with tourists than locals, who have generally embraced Western imports. The city does have its own orchestra, the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Western plays, with famous actors from Britain and America, are often put on for short seasons at some of the international hotels.
Both Thai and international cultural performances, including classical music, dance, ballet and pop concerts, are frequently held in the
Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Road (tel: (02) 247 0028; website:
www.culture.go.th), the
National Theatre, Rachini Road (tel: (02) 224 1342), and
Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, New Ratchadaphisek Road (tel: (02) 229 3000; website:
www.qsncc.co.th). Tickets can be obtained in advance from the venues or from
Thai Ticketmaster (tel: (02) 262 3456; website:
www.thaiticketmaster.com).
Music and Dance: Sala Rim Naam (tel: (02) 437 3080/6211) is owned by The Oriental Hotel and is located on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya River, next to the Peninsula Hotel. The nightly traditional music and dance show starts at 2030, preceded by dinner at 1900. Although there are numerous traditional shows daily throughout the city, this one, reputed to be the best in Thailand and beautifully located in a traditional teak pavilion-style restaurant, is unmissable. Thai classical performing arts take place at the
Patravadi Theatre (tel: (02) 412 7287; website;
www.patravaditheatre.com) on Soi Wat Rakhang.
The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra (tel: (02) 255 6617; website:
www.bangkoksymphony.org) performs in the
Thailand Cultural Centre (see above) and other venues around Bangkok. Bangkok Opera (tel: (02) 663 3236
or 661 4688 for tickets; website:
www.bangkokopera.com) also performs at the centre.
Theatre: Classical dramas are very colourful and expressive and these are held on the last Friday and Saturday of each month at the
National Theatre (see above). The
Bangkok Playhouse, on Phetchaburi Road (tel: (02) 319 7641), puts on modern plays each week on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights. The
Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre, on Charoen Krung (New Road) (tel: (02) 222 0434), has regular performances of plays and musical dance dramas. For those fascinated by the infamous ‘ladyboys’ or
katoeys of Bangkok, there are two performances each night at the Calypso Cabaret in the
Asia Hotel on Phayathai Road (tel: (02) 653 3960; website:
www.calypsocabaret.com), which are always packed out.
Film: Bangkok has a large number of cinemas but not all show English-language films. Some show movies with English soundtracks but many will have been dubbed into Thai. Cinemas that show films in English or with English subtitles include:
EGV Multiplexes (tel: (02) 515 5555; website:
www.egv.com) and
Major Cineplexes (also tel: (02) 515 5555; website:
www.majorcineplex.com), both with various venues throughout the city;
Lido Multiplex, Rama I Road (tel: (02) 252 6498), and
United Artists, located at Soi 24 Sukhumvit Road (tel: (02) 664 8711).
Nineteenth-century Bangkok features in the spectacular film
Anna and the King (1999). The filming did not take place in the city as the Thais banned the book on which it was based (see
Literary Notes below), as well as the earlier film, starring Yul Brynner, claiming that they were historically inaccurate. The James Bond movie,
The Man with the Golden Gun (1974) uses Bangkok, as well as the stunning Phang Nha Bay, as a backdrop. A 2001 epic
Suriyothai (directed by Prince Chatrichalerm Yukol) depicts life in the Ayutthaya period of Thai history and the story of the heroic Queen Suriyothai, with some incredible battle scenes. Thai director Pen-Ek Ratanaruang is one of Asia’s bright new hopes. His film
Last Life in the Universe (2003) about a romance between a suicidal Japanese man and a Thai prostitute in Bangkok has gained critical acclaim. In 2006 he directed
Digital Sam in Sam Saek 2006: Talk to Her and
Invisible Waves. Some of the scenes from the very successful
Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason (2004), directed by Beeban Kidron, were filmed around Soi Cowboy in Bangkok.
Literary Notes: A prolific writer of the darker side of expat life is Christopher G Moore who often uses Bangkok as a backdrop. Particularly well known are
Spirit House (1992) and
Asia Hand (1993), the first two books in a series of seven titles featuring the private eye Vincent Calvino. The latest one,
Minor Wife, was published in 2002. Jake Needham’s novel,
The Big Mango (1999), depicts the story of an ex-GI returning to Bangkok in search of money stolen from a Vietnamese bank.
The Beach, by Alex Garland (1997) is also a good read for anyone heading to Thailand, and his depiction of the backpacker scene in Bangkok is particularly accurate. Dean Barrett’s 2003
Skytrain to Murder is a murder mystery set in Bangkok.
The King and I (1956) is probably the most famous film about Bangkok and the royal court. The film is based on the book
Anna and the King of Siam (1944) by Margaret Landon, which itself is a novel adapted from
The English Governess at the Siamese Court, the memoirs of Anna Leonowens, recounting her period as a governess in the court of King Mongkut. A more historically accurate account of the time can be found in
The Kingdom and the People of Siam (1857) by Sir John Bowring, who was responsible for negotiating the treaty with King Mongkut.
Still based around the royal family,
The Bangkok Secret (1990) by Anthony Grey investigates the mystery surrounding the murder of King Ananda in Bangkok in 1946 - an event that is often glossed over and the identity of the assailant is still unknown. One of the best-known residents of Bangkok was Jim Thompson, who was responsible for building a major industry (silk) and whose home is a Bangkok landmark (see
Key Attractions). He mysteriously vanished in Malaysia in 1967 and William Warren wrote a book about his life and disappearance called
Jim Thompson: The Legendary American of Thailand (1976).
TextFor a Half Day Rose Garden: The
Rose Garden (tel: (034) 322 544; website:
www.rosegardenriverside.com) is a popular tourist attraction located 32km (20 miles) to the southwest of Bangkok. It features daily cultural shows, including dancing and Thai boxing. The resort is set in well-kept gardens and is open 0800-1700.
Damnoan Saduak Floating Market: Although this market is 80km (50 miles) west of Bangkok, it is far more interesting than the floating market in Bangkok, as it has not been turned into a tourist attraction. In the early morning, the narrow canals are full of small boats carrying fruit and vegetables sold by local women. The market is very colourful and atmospheric - but it is all over by 1100, which necessitates an early start from Bangkok. Although it is possible to take a bus from the Southern Bus Terminal to within a mile of the market, it is probably easier to join an organised tour from a hotel (see
Tours of the City).
For a Whole Day Kanchanaburi: Located 122km (76 miles) from Bangkok is the site of the infamous
Bridge over the River Kwai. Built by Allied PoWs during World War II, this is an area of exceptional natural beauty, with forested mountains and wooded valleys. Two immaculately maintained Allied war cemeteries are located just outside of the town. Kanchanaburi can be reached by either bus or train or by tour bus from Bangkok. The local
Tourist Authority of Thailand office (tel: (034) 511 200; website:
www.tourismthailand.org) can provide further information.
Ayutthaya: This was the Thai capital for over 400 years until its destruction in 1767. Ruins of numerous temples and palace buildings cover a vast area. The beauty of the place is such that it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is located 76km (47 miles) north of Bangkok and can be reached by bus, train or boat. The local
Tourist Authority of Thailand office (tel: (035) 246 076/7; website:
www.tourismthailand.org) can provide further information.
Suan Pakkad Palace Museum Suan Pakkad Palace used to be the residence of Princess Chumphot, one of Thailand’s leading art collectors. Five traditional wooden Thai houses, brought to Bangkok from around the country, are set in one of the loveliest gardens in the city. The museum houses an important collection of antiques.
Sri Ayudhaya Road, Rajathevi
Tel: (02) 245 4934.
Website:
www.suanpakkad.comOpening hours: Daily 0900-1600.
Admission charge.
Ban Kham Thieng Ban Kham Thieng is a 200-year-old classic northern-style teak house, brought from Chiang Mai and reconstructed in Bangkok. The house was owned by a worker and shows the simplicity of rural life in the north during the last century. It contains a collection of traditional implements used by farmers and rice field fishermen.
131 Soi Asoke (Soi 21), Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 661 6470.
Website:
www.siam-society.orgOpening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700.
Admission charge.
Ko Kret Some 20km (12 miles) to the north of the city,
Ko Kret is a tiny island community virtually untouched by the nearby metropolis. There are no roads on the island and many of its residents rely on its potteries for employment, as well as fruit and flowers from its many plantations. The island can be reached via Highways 31 and 35, then ferry from Pak Kret Pier. The
Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: (02) 623 6001; website:
www.chaophrayaboat.co.th) run an excursion every Saturday and Sunday from Sathorn Pier departing at 0900.
Text
Public TransportThe public transport system within Bangkok is plentiful and cheap, although most visitors use the taxis or the three-wheeled
tuk tuks (see below). An
elevated monorail, called the
Bangkok Transit System (tel: (02) 617 6000; website:
www.bts.co.th) but known as the
Skytrain,
operates on two lines across the city. The Sukhumvit Line runs from On
Nut along Sukhumvit Road to Siam Square, Phaya Thai Road, Victory
Monument and Mo Chit. The Silom Line starts at Saphan Taksin and runs
through Silom’s business area, Siam Square, ending at the National
Stadium. Since opening, the efficient Skytrain has vastly improved the
time it takes to move around the city. The government has approved
extension of the lines across the river and to the south, but work is
yet to start. Trains operate frequently 0600-0000. Tickets should be
purchased from automatic ticket machines.
Passes can be bought for 10, 15 and 30 journeys, to be used within 30 days. A one-day pass is available for unlimited trips.
The Bangkok
Metro(tel: (02) 354 2000
or 624 5200; website:
www.bangkokmetro.co.th),
opened in July 2004, covers parts of the city not served by the
Skytrain. Its one route starts at Hualampong station and finishes at
Bang Sue in the north of the city. There are 18 stations in total with
three intersecting with the Skytrain. The service operates 0600-0000.
Tokens should be purchased from automatic ticket machines; fares depend
on the distance travelled.
Passes can be bought for one day and three days.
The
Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (tel: (02) 246 0973; website:
www.bmta.co.th) runs a comprehensive and highly complex
bus system,
which operates across the city 0430-2300. Fares depend on the distance
travelled and the type of bus. The yellow and orange Euro II
air-conditioned buses use fuel-efficient engines to attempt to reduce
air pollution in the city. Microbuses have guaranteed seats. There is
also a limited night service (cream and red buses). Bus route maps are
widely available in hotels and bookshops.
TaxisTaxis can be hailed on the streets. If they are metered taxis, they
will have a taxi meter sign on the roof. Visitors should check that the
meter is turned on. If stuck in heavy traffic, the meter will start
increasing by the minute. There is a minimum charge for the first
couple of kilometres. There are also unmetered taxis where the fare
must be agreed upon in advance. Passengers always have to pay for any
road tolls incurred and should ensure they have plenty of small change
to pay the taxi fare. Many people arrange a taxi through the concierge
at their hotel where the rate is fixed and paid to the hotel before
departure. It is also possible to rent a taxi for longer trips. In
these cases, a fare should always be agreed in advance, even with
metered taxis. Tipping is not expected but much appreciated.
Tuk tuk These
three-wheeled taxis ply the streets and are ideal for short journeys.
Fares must be negotiated before getting in and depend on the distance
travelled. The number of tuk tuks in the city is decreasing but they
can still be found around hotels and visitor attractions.
River taxis Numerous river taxis, operated by
Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: (02) 623 6143; website:
www.chaophrayaboat.co.th),
travel upstream and downstream on the Chao Phraya River, acting more
like buses than taxis. Some special express boats operate only during
the morning and evening rush hours with limited stops. The
destinations/stops are indicated by different coloured flags. Other
smaller boats just shuttle from one side of the river to the other. A
service operates from Sathorn Pier near the Saphan Taksin Skytrain
station to 10 piers near major attractions and ends at Phra Arthit
Pier. The service operates daily 0930-1500, with departures every 30
minutes, and a one-day unlimited pass costs B100.
Motorcycle taxis As
a result of the gridlock experienced during the rush hour, motorcycle
taxis are now available as they can manoeuvre between the cars to reach
their destination more quickly. It is compulsory for passengers to wear
helmets, which are supplied by the driver. Drivers wear coloured
tabards for identification and wait at road intersections.
Driving in the CityDriving in Bangkok requires a great deal of patience and a certain
stubbornness. Few visitors attempt to hire a car, as good knowledge of
the city is required to be able to drive around. The density of the
traffic and the number of lanes mean that drivers always need to know
which lane to be in. There are a number of expressways crossing the
city with clearly signposted exits but traffic is often gridlocked
during rush hour (0700-0900 and 1600-1800). Traffic direction and
entry/exit locations change during the day without warning. Bangkok
drivers, in particular taxis, buses and motorbikes, are very aggressive
and unlikely to give way.
For those who do risk driving, many
of the large shopping complexes and hotels have a car park attached and
a convenient location is the Siam Centre on Rama I Road, which is open
24 hours. Car parks cost in the region of B30-40 for up to three hours
and B10 for each subsequent hour. The centre can also be reached by
Skytrain.
Car HireMany visitors to Thailand now choose to hire a car, although few hire
one within Bangkok because of the difficulties of moving through the
constantly heavy traffic. Car hire companies vary but drivers must be
at least 21 or 23 years old and have held a driving licence for one to
two years. A national licence and International Driving Permit are
required. It is compulsory to purchase Collision Damage Waiver and
Theft Protection and these are generally included in the hire price.
Payment must be made by credit card.
Avis have an office at 2-12 Wireless Road (tel: (02) 255 5300; website:
www.avisthailand.com), and
Budget at 19-23 Building A, Royal City Avenue, New Petchburi Road (tel: (02) 203 9294; website:
www.budget.co.th).
Bicycle HireOn Rattanakosin Island, footpaths have been converted into cycle paths,
which pass places such as the Royal Grand Palace and Sanam Luang.
Bicycles can be hired from
Spice Roads (tel: (02) 712 5305; website:
www.spiceroads.com). Cash or credit card deposit of US$500 is required.
TextSuvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) Tel: (02) 132 1888.
Website:
www.airportthai.co.th/airportnew/bia/htmlBangkok International Airport, located 30km (19 miles) east of the city centre, is operated by the
Airports Authority of Thailand. Opened in September 2006, to replace cramped Don Muang Airport, it is a major gateway to South-East Asia, already one of the region’s busiest airports and will initially handle up to 45 million passengers annually.
Approximate flight times to Bangkok: From London is 12 hours 55 minutes; from New York is 17 hours; from Los Angeles is 14 hours 30 minutes; from Toronto is 19 hours 10 minutes and from Sydney is 10 hours.
Airport facilities: These include 24-hour shopping, duty-free, restaurants, snack bars, postal services, bureaux de change, tourist information, hotel reservations, left-luggage and medical service. Car hire companies include
Avis and
Budget.
Business facilities: There is a business centre and Internet facilities. There are several executive lounges and services including limousine hire.
Transport to the city: Taxis can be pre-paid for at the Arrivals Hall in the airport; visitors should expect to pay up to B1,000 to the city centre (journey time - 40-90 minutes) plus road tolls of B65 at the booths. Airport Express buses operate four different routes into the city. Route AE1 goes to the Silom Road business district, AE2 goes to Banglamphu, AE3 goes to Wireless Road and AE4 goes to Hualampong Railway Station (journey times - about 1 hour). An overhead city rail link is currently under construction and is expected to open in late 2008.
The
State Railways of Thailand (tel: (02)
222 0175; website:
www.railway.co.th) operates four lines, all terminating in Bangkok. They run trains with air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned carriages. The main station in Bangkok is
Hualampong, Rama IV Road (tel: (02) 223 3762
or 224 7788, advance bookings), which serves most of the long-distance routes. Facilities at the station include cafés, bureau de change, ATM, left-luggage, post office and hotel reservation service. It is advisable to book tickets for long-distance trains in advance.
Noi station across the river in Thonburi (tel: (02) 411 3102) serves Kanchanaburi and a few destinations to the south so visitors should check which station to depart from.
Rail services: The four lines run from Chiang Mai in the north, Nong Khai in the northeast, Pattaya in the east and from Surat Thani and Butterworth (Malaysia) in the south. Direct trains take from 3 hours 25 minutes to Pattaya, 11 hours 15 minutes to Chiang Mai and 21 hours 10 minutes to Butterworth. The
Thailand Rail Pass is available and is valid for 20 days.
Transport to the city: Each station is served by numerous buses to the city. The new subway system starts at Hualampong station and the National Stadium Skytrain station is relatively close.
TextThailand has a reasonable network of roads and highways throughout the country, designated by numbers. Traffic drives on the left and the wearing of seat belts is compulsory with on-the-spot fines for offenders. The speed limits are 60kph (37mph) in the city, 90kph (56mph) on main country roads and 120kph (74mph) on expressways. A national driving licence or International Driving Permit are required but long-term visitors staying over three months would need to obtain a Thai driving licence. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. It is illegal to drink and drive in Thailand.
Driving in Thailand is not for the faint-hearted as drivers tend to take risks and overtake on bends and hills, while buses and lorries drive as if they own the road. Driving at night is to be avoided as most heavy trucks travel at this time. The incidence of traffic accidents is high and, when foreigners are involved in accidents, it is always assumed that it is they who are at fault and they are expected to pay the costs. Having said all that, driving is the best way to see the country and reach out-of-the-way places.
Emergency breakdown service: There is no national breakdown service but all car hire companies will provide a telephone number to their clients for use in case of a breakdown or emergency.
Routes to the city: The national highways are all designated by numbers. National Highway No 4 goes south to Hua Hin; National Highway No 3 goes east to Pattaya; and National Highway No 32 and No 11 go to Phitsanulok.
Approximate driving times to Bangkok: From Hua Hin - 3 hours; Pattaya - 3 hours; Phitsanulok - 5 hours 30 minutes.
Coach services: Bangkok has three main bus terminals serving different areas of the country. Both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses operate, but the air-conditioned ones tend to be faster and to make less stops en route. Buses south to Hua Hin, Phuket and the Thai-Malaysian border operate from the
Southern Bus Terminal, Boromratchonnani (tel: (02) 435 1200). Buses to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in the north and Ubon Ratchathani and Nong Khai in the northeast operate from the
North/northeastern Bus Terminal, Kampaeng Petch 2 Road (tel: (02) 936 2841). Buses to Pattaya and Trat in the east operate from the
Eastern Bus Terminal, Soi 40 Sukhumvit Road (tel: (02) 391 2504).
TextRoyal Grand Palace The
Royal Grand Palaceis a glittering walled complex that houses several palaces, all highly decorated with tiles and ceramics. Building was begun in 1782 when Bangkok was founded as the capital of Thailand. The complex houses
Wat Phra Kaeo, the holiest of all Thai temples, where the sacred Emerald Buddha rests, not covered in emeralds but jade. There is even a scale model of Angkor Wat. There is a strict dress code and visitors wearing shorts, mini-skirts, sleeveless shirts or flip-flops will be refused entry, although it is possible to hire trousers and plastic shoes.
Na Phra Lan Road
Tel: (02) 623 5500.
Website:
www.palaces.thai.netOpening hours: Daily 0830-1630.
Admission charge.
Vimanmek Palace Vimanmek Palaceis the world’s largest building made entirely of golden teak. It used to be a royal summer retreat and was dismantled and rebuilt in Bangkok in 1900. The 81-room mansion stands in carefully manicured lawns, located close to the current royal residence, and contains 31 exhibition rooms. Visitors are not free to wander but must take a guided tour, which take place every 30 minutes. Highlights include Thailand’s first indoor bathroom and the oldest typewriter with Thai characters. The dress code is the same as for the Royal Grand Palace.
Ratchawithi Road
Tel: (02) 228 6300.
Website:
www.palaces.thai.netOpening hours: Daily 0930-1515.
Admission charge (included with ticket to the Royal Grand Palace).
Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) Wat Pho is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok and houses an enormous gold-plated Reclining Buddha, which is 46m (150ft) long and 15m (49ft) high. Today, the temple is also renowned for its teaching of herbal medicine and traditional massage. There is a strict dress code.
Thai Wang Road
Tel: (02) 225 9595.
Website:
www.watpho.comOpening hours: Daily 0800-1700.
Admission charge.
National Museum One of the largest and most comprehensive museums in the region, the
National Museumhouses a vast collection of artefacts from the neolithic period through to more recent periods. The building, begun in 1782, is fascinating in its own right, having been built in traditional Thai style. The museum is so large that it needs more than one visit, however, if time is short, it must be spent in the lovely teak pavilion, which houses personal royal belongings. Free guided tours in English are given by volunteers at 0930 on Wednesdays and Thursdays and are highly recommended.
Na Phrathat Road
Tel: (02) 224 1333.
Website:
www.thailandmuseum.comOpening hours: Wed-Sun 0900-1600.
Admission charge.
Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 17th-century
Wat Arun has a 79m- (259ft-) high tower decorated with multicoloured ceramic tiles, which makes it a landmark along the river. The effect of the tiles is best observed at a distance. The temple was the first home of the Emerald Buddha before it was transferred to Wat Phra Kaeo in 1785. There is a nightly light and sound show between October and May.
Arun Amarin Road
Tel: (02) 465 5640.
Website:
www.watarun.orgOpening hours: Daily 0730-1730.
Admission charge.
Jim Thompson Thai House Jim Thompson was an American who came to Bangkok after World War II and the
Jim Thompson Thai House was his home until he mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967. He completely revived the Thai silk industry and his house, traditionally Thai in style, is now a museum showing his collection of Asian artefacts. The house is a complex of six traditional Thai teak structures brought to Bangkok from various parts of Thailand and its construction was completed in 1955. The house can only be visited on a guided tour.
6 Soi Kasemsan 2 Song, Rama I Road
Tel: (02) 216 7368.
Website:
www.jimthompsonhouse.comOpening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (last tour at 1630).
Admission charge.
Royal Barge National MuseumThe royal barges are rarely used by the royal family these days because of their age. A few of them are now preserved in the
Royal Barge National Museum on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. The eight long, narrow boats on display are intricately gilded and each need between 50 and 60 rowers to take their oars. The figure on the bow of each boat signifies whether it carries the King and Queen or other members of the royal family. The most important barge is the Suphannahong, exclusively used by the King.
Khlong Bangkok Noi
Tel: (02) 424 0004.
Website:
www.thailandmuseum.comOpening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission charge.
Text100 Thai Baht (฿100) = £1.66; US$2.93; C$3.16; A$3.78; €2.12Currency conversion rates as of October 2008IntroductionMuch of Bangkok's nightlife is concentrated in the two red light districts of Bangkok - Patpong (between Silom and Surawong Roads) and Soi Cowboy (Sukhumvit Road), named after the first bar that opened here, the
Cowboy Bar. Bangkok's sex industry is as blatant and booming as ever. However, in addition to the numerous sex clubs and massage parlours, there are many excellent cocktail bars and restaurants and, at night, the area is always thronging with people. Most venues are open all day and late into the night, although bars and clubs are supposed to close at 0200. Sometimes there is an admission fee but this usually includes one or two drinks. The dress code is very relaxed, although a few of the nightclubs do enforce smarter dress.
As in any city, nightlife venues come and go and news of the latest hotspots can be found in the city's listings magazine,
Bangkok Metro (website:
www.bkkmetro.com).
Bars: The
Bull's Head, 33/1 Sukhumvit Road, is popular with many expat residents of Bangkok. It is a British-style pub, with regular quiz and theme nights. Irish pubs are popular in most cities in the world and the busy
O'Reilly's Irish Pub, 62/1-4 Silom Road is no exception. A stylish watering hole is
The Barbicanon Soi Thaniya, Silom Road, with a good selection of drinks and good food. To see a different perspective of Bangkok while enjoying an aperitif, try the open-air
Vertigo bar on the 62nd floor of the
Banyan Tree Hotel, 21/100 South Sathon Road.
Clubs: Concept CM2(website:
www.cm2bkk.com), a huge disco and bar in the basement of the
Novotel Hotelon Siam Square continues to be very popular, in particular on Thursdays, its hip hop night. The amazing light and sound system and ostentatious art deco-style interior of
Narcissus, 112 Soi 23 Sukhumvit Road (website:
www.bedsupperclub.com), attracts the smart set keen on house, trance and techno. The outrageous
Bed Supper Clubat 26 Soi 11 Sukhumvit Road has beds decorating this all-white cylinder shaped club, where you can chill before entering the
Bed Bar to listen to house, hip hop and bhangra. Just down the road, the hangout for trendy locals and expats is the stylish
Q Bar, 34 Soi 11 Sukhumvit Road (website:
www.qbarbangkok.com), which also imports top international DJs. Both clubs offer a range of music from house to hip hop.
Live Music: Ad-Makers, 51 Soi Lang Suan (off Ploenchit), has live bands that play folk, pop and hard rock and the crowd often sing along.
Saxophone Pub, 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Road (website:
www.saxophonepub.com), has great acoustics, a lively atmosphere and a variety of live music including funk, jazz, blues and ska. Classy
Spasso, in the
Grand Hyatt Erawan, Rajadamri Road, is an ideal place to dance to the sounds of top international acts playing retro, pop and top 40 music.
The Bamboo Barin the upmarket hotel
The Oriental(see
Hotels), is an intimate, refined club with an excellent reputation for its guest jazz bands.
Radio City, Patpong Soi 1, is a great live music venue with bands playing old rock music.
RestaurantsRestaurantsThe selected restaurants have been divided into five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations. The restaurants are listed alphabetically within these different categories, which serve as guidelines rather than absolute definitions of the establishments.
These restaurants have been further divided into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over ฿2,500)
$$$ (฿1,800 to ฿2,500)
$$ (฿1,000 to ฿1,800)
$ (under ฿1,000)
The prices quoted above are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a half bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they do not include VAT or service charge, unless stated otherwise.
There is VAT of 7% added to restaurant bills in Bangkok and this is usually added to the bill at the end. In addition, many restaurants also add a service charge of around 10%. Where this is not added, visitors should tip around 10%.
GastronomicAuberge DAB
This elegant but friendly restaurant has dark wood-panelled walls and a cool tiled floor. The sumptuous French food is served at tables with crisp white tablecloths and elegant fine dinnerware. The excellent service and the restaurant’s superb speciality seafood, such as pan-fried seabass with lobster bisque sauce, make this a very special place.
Ground Floor, Mercury Tower, 540 Ploenchit Road
Tel: (02) 658 6222.
Price: $$$$
Baan KhanithaThis restaurant, located off Sukhumvit Road, has won the
Bangkok Dining and Entertainment Award for ‘Best Thai Restaurant’ for eight consecutive years and its popularity is proof of this, so it is essential to book. The converted villa has stylish and typically Thai decor, a mainly wooden interior with antiques and works of art creating a very calm atmosphere. The exquisite presentation of the food is as stylish as the decor. Set menus are available for two people.
36/1 Soi 23 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 258 4181.
Website:
www.baan-khanitha.comPrice: $$
Le BanyanLe Banyan is one of those restaurants where the welcome is genuine, the decor elegant and the food superb. This intimate classy restaurant, located off Sukhumvit Road, serves French haute cuisine, including delicious fillet of Atlantic snow fish with a beer beurre blanc.
59 Soi 8 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 253 5556.
Website:
www.le-banyan.comPrice: $$$
Le NormandieThis small, plush restaurant with a rarefied atmosphere serves up what has to be the best French cuisine in Bangkok, if not in the region. Located in the original part of
The Oriental hotel, the restaurant boasts floor-to-ceiling windows with unrivalled views over the Chao Phraya River. The menu, prepared by a three Michelin star chef, is extensive. An excellent choice is the sole fillets with baby squid, swiss chard and chestnuts. No lunch Sunday. There is a strict dress code.
The Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue
Tel: (02) 659 9000.
Website:
www.mandarinoriental.comPrice: $$$$
Rang Mahal
This restaurant, on the rooftop of the
Rembrandt Hotel (see
Hotels), with superb views of the city, serves gourmet Indian food at its best. The decor is sumptuous with Indian wall hangings and plush colours and the atmosphere very tranquil with Indian music playing unobtrusively in the background. The food is all excellent but a particularly fine dish is
murgh makhanwala, succulent chicken simmered in creamy fenugreek-flavoured tomato gravy. Sunday brunch is very popular.
Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Soi 18 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 261 7100.
Website:
www.rembrandtbkk.comPrice: $$
TrendyA Matter of Taste
A contemporary, calm restaurant with an al fresco dining area which is conveniently located a short walk from both Ploenchit and Chitlom skytrain stations. An excellent choice of Thai and international food is on the menu including lamb chops served with baked garlic, mint jelly and mushroom risotto. The food is beautifully presented and the desserts are luscious. The set lunch is excellent value.
548/7 Embassy Park Plaza, Ploenchit Road
Tel: (02) 252 2002.
Price: $$
Blue ElephantHoused in an elegant old colonial building, with a Thai restaurant, bar and a cooking school on the top floor. The food is innovative and presentation is delightful; it tastes good as well. Be brave and try the durian cheesecake.
233 South Sathorn Road, Kwaeng Yannawa
Tel: (02) 673 9353.
Website:
www.blueelephant.comPrice: $
JestersLocated in the
Peninsula Hotel, this restaurant over two levels is a great place to dine, with fun contemporary decor and stunning views of the Chao Phraya River. It serves an eclectic mix of Pacific Rim food, with dishes such as Tasman lamb cutlets, ginger beet wantons and watercress sauce. No children 12 years or under. No lunch.
Peninsula Bangkok Hotel, 333 Charoennakorn Road
Tel: (02) 861 2888.
Website:
www.peninsula.comPrice: $$$
The Barbican
In a quiet
soi off the Silom Road,
The Barbican is a music café with a small contemporary area with stools and tables downstairs and a simple, teak restaurant upstairs. Tapas-size snacks are available, as well as Thai food. There is a good-value three-course set lunch. No lunch at weekends in the restaurant.
9/4-5 Soi Thaniya, Silom Road
Tel: (02) 234 3590.
Website:
www.greatbritishpub.comPrice: $
Zanzibar
This chic and contemporary restaurant in a converted Thai house is situated in the Sukhumvit area. The ground floor is loud and buzzing with live music, while upstairs is more mellow, with comfy seating and wooden floors. Thai, Japanese and Italian dishes are on offer, including excellent spicy beef with herbs and crispy aubergines. No lunch.
139 Soi 11 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 651 2700.
Price: $
BudgetBlack Swan
At this British pub, run by two Yorkshiremen, mementoes of Sheffield cover the wood-panelled walls and sports events are shown on a large plasma screen. Traditional British pub grub is served including fish and chips and bangers and mash.
326/8-9 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 229 4542.
Website:
www.blackswanbkk.comPrice: $
Mango TreeTucked in a quiet
soi between the busy Silom and Surawongse Roads,
Mango Tree is made up of two old houses, with intriguing photos of a past Bangkok on the wall and a collection of old cameras. Although cheap, this restaurant still serves fantastic fine Thai food. The dishes are influenced from all corners of Thailand and the spicy green and red curries are particularly tasty.
37 Soi Tantawan, Surawongse Road
Tel: (02) 236 2820.
Price: $$
O’Reillys Irish Pub
This traditional Irish pub on the Silom Road has a comfortable bar with a great atmosphere. The floor is wooden and there are photographs of traditional Irish scenes adorning the walls. A good selection of Thai and European food is on offer, including a wholesome beef and Guinness pie. There is a happy hour from 1700-1900 every day.
62/1-4 Silom Road
Tel: (02) 632 7515.
Price: $
Rasayana Raw Food Cafe
After being rejuvenated and detoxed at the
Rasayana Retreat, treat yourself to some raw food, rich in vitamins and minerals, in their cafe. Try the leafy vegetables, almonds and cashew nuts stuffed in tomatoes under a shady tree in the delightful courtyard. The café closes at 2000 and it is best to make a reservation.
57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39
Tel: (02) 662 4803.
Website:
www.rasayanaretreat.comPrice: $
Singapore Chicken RiceAt first sight, the functional white tiles, practical tables and frenetic atmosphere of this small restaurant are not particularly appealing. However, it is frequented by expats, visitors and many locals, who all come for the fantastic food. Diners can watch dishes, such as the scrumptious
won ton, being prepared out the front. No credit cards.
440/5 Soi 55 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 392 4247.
Price: $
Personal RecommendationsCabbages & Condoms
Cabbages & Condoms is nearly as strange as its name, with displays of condoms of all shapes, sizes and colours and a tableau of vasectomy equipment in the restaurant. However, the place goes from strength to strength and combines its work to improve life for rural Thailand through contraception, hygiene programmes and AIDS education with great Thai cuisine. Located off busy Sukhumvit Road, the restaurant is surprisingly relaxing, with a lush garden and delicious food, and the addition of a deserving cause make it well worth a visit.
10 Soi 12 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 229 4610/1.
Price: $$
Ma Be Ba
Leave the hot, steamy streets of the Phloenjit area of Bangkok to enter
Ma Be Ba and it feels like you are in a different country, or rather continent, altogether. The smell of the bakery and the tiled mosaic floor, warm colours, plants and open kitchen are evocative of southern Italy. Family friendly, the place is as popular with expats as it is with locals. The restaurant offers a set lunch and seafood, such as the pan-fried crispy seabass filet, is a speciality.
93 Lung Suan Road, Phloenjit, Lumpinee
Tel: (02) 253 9426.
Price: $$
Manohra Cruise
There can be no better way to experience the Chao Phraya River than on a dinner cruise on a beautifully restored rice barge. Operated by the
Marriott Resort & Spa Hotel, the
Manohra Cruise welcomes visitors for daily dinner cruises passing riverside temples, waterfront homes and provides the opportunity to see river life close up. There is a set menu of beautifully presented Thai food, including green curry with duck and sweet basil. The cruise departs from the Marriott Hotel at 1930, but can be boarded from different piers: Taksin Public, Oriental Public and Peninsula Hotel pier. Reservations recommended.
Marriott Resort & Spa Hotel, 257 Charoennakorn Road
Tel: (02) 477 0770.
Website:
www.manohracruises.comPrice: $$$
Seafood Palace InternationalAt night you can’t miss this large restaurant with its thousands of twinkling nights. Inside, the tables surround a small, central stage where there are nightly displays of traditional Thai dancing. The menu is limited but delicious, particularly the stir fried crab in Thai chilli. The restaurant is popular with locals; always a good sign.
348 Sukhumvit Road, Asoke Road
Tel: (02) 653 1145.
Website:
www.seafoodpalace.netPrice: $$$
TextBangkok is arguably the best place in Asia for shopping and visitors will be spoilt for choice with the extensive shopping malls, department stores, small shops and markets. The city is also a bargain hunter’s paradise and haggling with street vendors is to be expected and all part of the fun enjoyed by both buyer and seller.
The Silom Road area is one of the main shopping centres, which boasts numerous specialist shops and department stores, including
Robinsons, several shopping plazas and a wide range of silk and antique shops, as well as many tailors. The
River City Shopping Complex, adjacent to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, has two floors devoted to antiques. Prices are fixed in most department stores but they do frequently offer discounts to interested buyers. The ultimate shopping experience is to be had at
The Emporiumon Sukhumvit Road with brand-name clothing and accessories, as well as cinemas, supermarkets and restaurants.
However, most visitors will head to the many
street markets for their colourful atmosphere and lower prices. The Sukhumvit Road area has a street market that runs most of the day but is busiest at night. Dozens of stalls sell clothes, bags, silk items and gifts. Apart from the colourful nightlife in Patpong, the area also has a bustling night market where clothes and souvenirs are a real bargain.
The weekend market at
Chatuchak Park, on Phaholyothin Road, sells virtually everything that Thailand makes or grows, such as furniture, carpets, ceramics, watches, clothes, food and flowers. The
Suan Lum night bazaar at the intersection of Rama IV and Wireless Roads is very popular with thousands of stalls selling gifts, clothes, handicrafts and jewellery. However, the market is rumoured to be closing so the site can be redeveloped and at the moment there are no plans to move the bazaar elsewhere.
Chinatown is full of gold shops and the nearby cloth market at Phahurat has a huge range of superb fabrics.
Woeng Nakhon Kasem, better known as the ‘Thieves’ Market’, located between Yaowarat Road and New Road, sells antique porcelain, copperware and furniture. Good buys to be found throughout the city include silk items, silver and gold, gems (rubies and sapphires are indigenous to Thailand), pearls, painted umbrellas and fans, ceramics, wickerwork, woodcarvings and leather goods. It is also an ideal place to have clothes made and the quality is of a high standard.
Many stores are open 12 hours a day, seven days a week and the street markets have even longer hours, although some are busier in the mornings and others in the evenings.
A
Thailand Duty-Free Shop is located in the Downtown Duty Free Mall, King Power Complex, Rangnam Road. Tourists can pay for their purchases here and collect them at the airport immediately prior to departure from the country. Value Added Tax (7%) can be refunded on goods bought in shops labelled ‘VAT refund for tourists’, where there is a minimum transaction of ฿2,000 including VAT. VAT Refund Application for Tourists forms are completed at the time of purchase and it is necessary to show one’s passport. Cash refunds (minimum ฿5,000) can be obtained in the airport departure hall and often the goods purchased must also be shown.
Sightseeing OverviewThe
sprawling city of Bangkok is full of interesting attractions for tourists, however, the heavily
congested traffic means it is difficult to cover a lot of ground in a single day. Sightseeing should be
selective if time is short or
restricted to one area per day, although the
Skytrain does help visitors travel across town more quickly.
An excellent way to appreciate the city’s layout is to go to the
observation deck on the 77th floor of the
Baiyoke Sky Hotel, one of the tallest hotels in the world.
Many of the main places of interest, such as the
Royal Grand Palace,
Wat Pho and the
National Museum, are to the east of the Chao Phraya River (west of the north-south railway line) in an area called
Rattanakosin Island, which is also home to many hotels. However, some visitors may stay to the east of the railway line in the
Sukhumvit Road area, where there is excellent
shopping,
nightlife and tourist
sights, such as
Suan Pakkard Palace Museumand
Jim Thompson Thai House.
Apart from the major sights (see
Key Attractions), which are all ‘must-see’, there are numerous other attractions, including over 400 temples. To the north of the Royal Grand Palace is
Sanam Luang, which is a huge public area surrounded by old tamarind trees. This area is used for many ceremonies throughout the year, such as the Ploughing Ceremony, as well as being a popular place for kite-flying and just passing the time.
The 19th-century
Wat Suthat on Bamrung Muang Road is renowned for its murals depicting the lives of Buddha. In front of the temple is Sao Ching Cha (
Giant Swing), which was the site of a Brahmin ceremony until the 1920s. Only the posts of the swing remain.
Chinatown is a lively area located between the river and Hualampong railway station. The area is fascinating for its maze of
narrow lanes and
open-fronted shops selling a cornucopia of items. On Yaowarat Road,
Wat Trai Mit houses a gleaming solid gold Buddha, 3m (10ft) high and weighing over five tons. Close to Chinatown is
Phahurat, the main Indian area, crammed with colourful
fabric shops and excellent
Indian restaurants.
On Si Ayutthaya Road, in an elegant area full of government buildings and the current royal residence, is
Wat Benjamabopit, mainly built with Italian marble and a mix of European and Thai architecture.
Lumphini Park is a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the city, dotted with pavilions and two small lakes.
For visitors who do not have time to travel in the rest of Thailand, the
Ancient City is an open-air museum with full-size and scaled-down
replicas of famous buildings, monuments and temples from all over the country. It covers an area of 112 hectares (280 acres) and is 33km (20 miles) southeast of the city centre.
Well worth a visit is
Bang Pa In, 60km (37 miles) north of Bangkok, the former
summer residence of the
royal family in the 17th century, which is a collection of buildings reflecting Oriental and European influences.
Whether visiting palaces or temples, it is important to
dress respectfully. Entry can and will be refused if this rule is not followed.
Tourist InformationTourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) 1st Floor, 1600 New Phetburi Road
Makkasan, Rajatevee
Tel: (02) 250 5500.
Website:
www.tourismthailand.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1630.
The
TAT Call Centre (tel: 1672) is open daily 0800-2000. The tourist police provide 24-hour assistance for complaints and emergencies from their office on Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue or through the toll-free hotline (tel: 1155).
TextNew Year’s Day, 1 Jan, celebrations traditionally begin with merit-making in the mornings, when Buddhists take gifts of flowers, incense or donations to the temples, followed by parties and entertainment around Sanam Luang for the rest of the day, Sanam Luang area
Bangkok International Film Festival,
Jan/Feb, throughout the city (website:
www.bangkokfilm.org)
Makha Puja, Feb/Mar, Buddhist Holy day featuring various day and night candlelit ceremonies, temples around the city
International Kite Festival, Mar/Apr, kite fighting and demonstrations, Sanam Luang
International Bangkok Motor Show, Mar/Apr, Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (website:
www.grandprixgroup.com)
Bangkok International Book Fair,
Mar/Apr, Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (website:
www.bangkokibf.com)
Bangkok Fringe Festival, Apr, innovative theatre productions, Patravadi Theatre (website:
www.patravaditheatre.com)
Songkran (Thai New Year), Apr, religious ceremonies and public festivities involving lots of water, throughout the city
Royal Ploughing Ceremony, May, celebration of the start of the rice-growing season, Sanam Luang
Asarnha Puja Day/Khao Phansa Day, Jul, commemorates Buddha’s first sermon and the beginning of Buddhist Lent, temples throughout the city
Queen’s Birthday Celebrations, 12 Aug, public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings, throughout the city
Yaowarat Food Festival, Sep/Oct, taste and watch the preparation of Chinese, Thai, international and vegetarian food, Chinatown
Chulalongkorn Day, 23 Oct, public holiday in memory of Rama V, best seen at the Equestrian Statue in the Royal Plaza
Bangkok Marathon,
Nov, Sanam Chai (website:
www.thailandmarathon.org)
King’s Birthday Celebrations, 5 Dec, public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings, throughout the city
TextWalking Tours Although Bangkok is not really the best city for much exploration on foot,
Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 255 9150; website:
www.diethelmtravel.com) offers a walking tour of Chinatown, called ‘Bangkok Way of Life', which lasts 3 hours 30 minutes.
Bus Tours World Travel Service (tel: (02) 233 5900; website:
www.wts-thailand.com) runs small group tours with free pick-ups from numerous hotels throughout Bangkok. Tours can be booked direct or through the tour desk in some hotels. Half-day city tours include the ‘Royal Grand Palace Tour' and the ‘Temples Tour'.
Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 255 9150; website:
www.diethelmtravel.com) offers similar tours.
Bicycle Tours Every day at 1300 there is a 3-hour bicycle tour of Bang Kra Jao, a wilderness area with small villages, temples and jungle, just across the Chao Phraya River. The starting point is the Golf Driving Range at Sukhumvit Soi 26 and it is organised by
Spice Roads (tel: (02) 712 5305; website:
www.spiceroads.com) and the charge includes the hire of a bicycle, helmet, water and snacks.
Spice Roads also offer other day tours.
Boat Tours Bangkok is laced with
khlongs (canals) and life alongside the
khlongs is far removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown Bangkok. An ideal way to see this side of Bangkok is a boat trip, passing tiny temples, orchards, orchid farms and typical houses on stilts. These are organised by
World Travel Service (tel: (02) 233 5900; website:
www.wts.co.th) and
Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 255 9150; website:
www.diethelmtravel.com). The tours on offer from
Diethelm include a visit to the floating market at Damnoan Saduak.