Please choose your destination:
Bangkok, Thailand
Overview - Business Etiquette - City Statistics - Culture - Excursions - Further Distractions - Getting Around - Getting There By Air - Getting There By Rail - Getting There By Road - Key Attractions - Money - Nightlife - Restaurants - Shopping - Sightseeing - Special Events - Tours of the City
OverviewLove it or hate it, buzzing, sweaty, exotic Bangkok is a city that really is larger than life. For some, the frenetic pace, heat, traffic and lack of personal
space can be overpowering and are good reasons to pass through the city as quickly as possible but, for many others, the sheer dynamism is intoxicating.
A curious blend of the traditional
East with the modern
West, Bangkok's every street has a surprise in hold for the visitor. Ramshackle
buildings crouch next to exotic
temples surrounded by delightful
gardens, which are in turn overlooked by modern hotels and offices.
The chaos on the roads is mirrored by the busy traffic on the Chao
Phraya
River, which dissects the city and is regularly crisscrossed by long-tailed boats, river taxis and small rowing boats, all miraculously missing each other.
But traditional
Thai
life is never very far away. Weaving among the nose-to-tail traffic in the morning rush hour, saffron-robed monks can still be seen collecting alms, while just moments from the city centre whole communities live in stilt houses by the river, eking out a living using skills that have not changed in centuries.
Bangkok became the capital in 1782, but the absolute rule of the monarchy ended in 1932 when it was replaced by a system of constitutional monarchy. To this day, the monarchy is regarded with almost religious reverence and it is an offence, punishable by imprisonment, to insult the royal family. His Majesty King Bhumibol is the longest-reigning monarch in the world, having come to power in 1946.
Following the end of absolute monarchy, Thailand moved towards democracy, but this has been thwarted by the military, which has often staged coups in protest at government policies. The most recent was in September 2006 when a bloodless
coup overthrew the Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra. Anti-government demonstrations took place in August 2008 and the Prime Minister, only elected in December 2007, was removed from office and replaced by Prime Minister Somchai in September.
Thailand is a tropical country so it is hot throughout the year, but the best
time to
visit is between November and March, during the dry
season. During the rainy
season, humidity is very high and the downpours are short but violent and the streets of Bangkok often flood.
Business EtiquetteMost senior businesspeople in large or international companies will speak English, but it is not common in smaller companies. It is essential to make appointments for business meetings and to exchange business cards. Punctuality is also very important (although the visitor is quite often likely to be kept waiting after arrival), so the Bangkok traffic must be taken into consideration when going to appointments. Thai hosts are quite likely to give small gifts to visitors, so it is a good idea to reciprocate with a typical national gift of one's own. Visitors should never get angry or raise their voice if things are not going according to plan, as this will mean a loss of face on both sides. Much more progress will be made by remaining calm.
Meetings often take place over lunch and these are generally held in a Thai restaurant. Thai businesspeople are quite formal in their dress but, because of the extreme heat, it is quite acceptable and practical to dispense with the wearing of a suit jacket. Office hours are usually Monday to Friday 0800-1700. There is a large expat community in Bangkok, as well as a big after-work drinking scene.
IntroductionLocationCentral Plain, Thailand.
Dialling code66.
Population7 million (city); 10 million (metropolitan area).
Time zoneGMT + 7.
Electricity220 volts AC, 50Hz; two-pin plugs are standard.
Average January temperatures26°C (79°F).
Average July temperatures29°C (84°F).
Annual rainfall1,500mm (58.5 inches).
IntroductionBangkok has many traditional dance and theatre groups, which perform around the city, although nowadays they are more popular with tourists than locals, who have generally embraced Western imports. The city does have its own orchestra, the Bangkok Symphony Orchestra. Western plays, with famous actors from Britain and America, are often put on for short seasons at some of the international hotels.
Both Thai and international cultural performances, including classical music, dance, ballet and pop concerts, are frequently held in the
Thailand Cultural Centre, Ratchadaphisek Road (tel: (02) 247 0028; website:
www.culture.go.th), the
National Theatre, Rachini Road (tel: (02) 224 1342), and
Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre, New Ratchadaphisek Road (tel: (02) 229 3000; website:
www.qsncc.co.th). Tickets can be obtained in advance from the venues or from
Thai Ticketmajor (tel: (02) 262 3456; website:
www.thaiticketmajor.com). A good what's on website is
www.bangkokconcerts.org.
Music and Dance: Sala Rim Naam (tel: (02) 437 6211) is owned by The Oriental Hotel and is located on the opposite bank of the Chao Phraya River, next to the Peninsula Hotel. The nightly traditional music and dance show starts at 2030, preceded by dinner at 1900. Although there are numerous traditional shows daily throughout the city, this one, reputed to be the best in Thailand and beautifully located in a traditional teak pavilion-style restaurant, is unmissable. Thai classical performing arts take place at the
Patravadi Theatre (tel: (02) 412 7287; website;
www.patravaditheatre.com) on Soi Wat Rakhang.
Siam Niramit, on Tiamruammit Road,
is a lavish music and dance spectacular which is often sold out (tel: (02) 649 9222; website:
www.siamniramit.com).
The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra (tel: (02) 255 6617; website:
www.bangkoksymphony.net) performs in the
Thailand Cultural Centre (see above) and other venues around Bangkok. Bangkok Opera (tel: (02) 663 3236
or 661 4688 for tickets; website:
www.bangkokopera.org) also performs at the centre.
Theatre: Classical dramas are very colourful and expressive and these are held on the last Friday and Saturday of each month at the
National Theatre (see above). The
Joe Louis Puppet Theatre, by the Suan Lum Night Bazaar (tel: (02) 252 9683; website:
www.thaipuppet.com/core) depicts the story of the Ramakien in a fun and colourful way with large puppets which need three people to work them. The
Chalerm Krung Royal Theatre, on Charoen Krung (New Road) (tel: (02) 222 0434; website:
www.salachalermkrung.com), has regular performances of plays and musical dance dramas. For those fascinated by the infamous ‘ladyboys' or
katoeys of Bangkok, there are two performances each night at the Calypso Cabaret in the
Asia Hotel on Phayathai Road (tel: (02) 653 3960; website:
www.calypsocabaret.com), which are always packed out.
Film: Bangkok has a large number of cinemas but not all show English-language films. Some show movies with English soundtracks but many will have been dubbed into Thai. Cinemas that show films in English or with English subtitles include:
EGV Multiplexes and
Major Cineplexes (both Movie Line tel: (02) 515 5555; website:
www.majorcineplex.com), both with various venues throughout the city;
Lido Multiplex, Rama I Road (tel: (02) 252 6498), and
Krungsri Imax (Movie Line tel: (02) 515 5555; website:
www.imaxthai.com) located in the Siam Paragon Mall.
Nineteenth-century Bangkok features in the spectacular film
Anna and the King (1999). The filming did not take place in the city as the Thais banned the book on which it was based (see
Literary Notes below), as well as the earlier film, starring Yul Brynner, claiming that they were historically inaccurate. The James Bond movie,
The Man with the Golden Gun (1974) uses Bangkok, as well as the stunning Phang Nha Bay, as a backdrop.
A 2001 epic
Suriyothai (directed by Prince Chatrichalerm Yukol) depicts life in the Ayutthaya period of Thai history and the story of the heroic Queen Suriyothai, with some incredible battle scenes. Thai director Pen-Ek Ratanaruang is one of Asia's bright new hopes. His film
Last Life in the Universe (2003) about a romance between a suicidal Japanese man and a Thai prostitute in Bangkok has gained critical acclaim. In 2006 he directed
Digital Sam in Sam Saek 2006: Talk to Her and
Invisible Waves.
Some of the scenes from the very successful
Bridget Jones: The Edge of Reason (2004), directed by Beeban Kidron, were filmed around Soi Cowboy in Bangkok as well as the 2008 remake of
Bangkok Dangerous directed by the Pang brothers.
Literary Notes: A prolific writer of the darker side of expat life is Christopher G Moore who often uses Bangkok as a backdrop. Particularly well known are
Spirit House (1992) and
Asia Hand (1993), the first two books in a series of seven titles featuring the private eye Vincent Calvino. The latest one,
Minor Wife, was published in 2002. Jake Needham's novel,
The Big Mango (1999), depicts the story of an ex-GI returning to Bangkok in search of money stolen from a Vietnamese bank.
The Beach, by Alex Garland (1997) is also a good read for anyone heading to Thailand, and his depiction of the backpacker scene in Bangkok is particularly accurate. Dean Barrett's 2003
Skytrain to Murder is a murder mystery set in Bangkok.
The King and I (1956) is probably the most famous film about Bangkok and the royal court. The film is based on the book
Anna and the King of Siam (1944) by Margaret Landon, which itself is a novel adapted from
The English Governess at the Siamese Court, the memoirs of Anna Leonowens, recounting her period as a governess in the court of King Mongkut. A more historically accurate account of the time can be found in
The Kingdom and the People of Siam (1857) by Sir John Bowring, who was responsible for negotiating the treaty with King Mongkut.
Still based around the royal family,
The Bangkok Secret (1990) by Anthony Grey investigates the mystery surrounding the murder of King Ananda in Bangkok in 1946 - an event that is often glossed over and the identity of the assailant is still unknown. One of the best-known residents of Bangkok was Jim Thompson, who was responsible for building a major industry (silk) and whose home is a Bangkok landmark (see
Key Attractions). He mysteriously vanished in Malaysia in 1967 and William Warren wrote a book about his life and disappearance called
Jim Thompson: The Legendary American of Thailand (1976).
TextFor a Half Day Rose Garden: The Rose Garden
(tel: (034) 322 544; website:
www.rosegardenriverside.com) is a popular tourist attraction located 32km (20 miles) to the southwest of Bangkok. It features daily cultural shows, including dancing and Thai boxing. The resort is set in well-kept gardens and is open 0800 to 1700.
Damnoan Saduak Floating Market: Although this market is 80km (50 miles) west of Bangkok, it is far more interesting than the floating market in Bangkok, as it has not been turned into a tourist attraction. In the early morning, the narrow canals are full of small boats carrying fruit and vegetables sold by local women. The market is very colourful and atmospheric - but it is all over by 1100, which necessitates an early start from Bangkok. Although it is possible to take a bus from the Southern Bus Terminal to within a mile of the market, it is probably easier to join an organised tour from a hotel (see
Tours of the City).
For a Whole Day Kanchanaburi: Located 122km (76 miles) from Bangkok is the site of the infamous
Bridge over the River Kwai. Built by Allied PoWs during WWII, this is an area of exceptional natural beauty, with forested mountains and wooded valleys. Two immaculately maintained Allied war cemeteries are located just outside of the town. Kanchanaburi can be reached by either bus or train or by tour bus from Bangkok. The local Tourist Authority of Thailand
office (tel: (034) 511 200; website:
www.tourismthailand.org/kanchanaburi) can provide further information.
Ayutthaya: This was the Thai capital for over 400 years until its destruction in 1767. Ruins of numerous temples and palace buildings cover a vast area. The beauty of the place is such that it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It is located 76km (47 miles) north of Bangkok and can be reached by bus, train or boat. The local Tourist Authority of Thailand
office (tel: (035) 246 076/7; website:
www.tourismthailand.org/ayutthaya) can provide further information.
Suan Pakkad Palace Museum Suan Pakkad Palace
used to be the residence of Princess Chumphot, one of Thailand's leading art collectors. Eight traditional wooden Thai houses, brought to Bangkok from around the country, are set in one of the loveliest gardens in the city. The museum houses an important collection of antiques.
Sri Ayudhaya Road, Rajathevi
Tel: (02) 245 4934.
Website:
www.suanpakkad.comOpening hours: Daily 0900-1600.
Admission charge.
Ban Kham Thieng Ban Kham Thieng
is a 200-year-old classic northern-style teak house, brought from Chiang Mai and reconstructed in Bangkok. The house was owned by a worker and shows the simplicity of rural life in the north during the last century. It contains a collection of traditional implements used by farmers and rice field fishermen.
131 Soi Asoke (Soi 21), Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 661 6470.
Website:
www.siam-society.orgOpening hours: Tues-Sat 0900-1700.
Admission charge.
Ko Kret Some 20km (12 miles) to the north of the city, Ko Kret
is a tiny island community virtually untouched by the nearby metropolis. There are no roads on the island and many of its residents rely on its potteries for employment, as well as fruit and flowers from its many plantations. The island can be reached via Highways 31 and 35, then ferry from Pak Kret Pier. The
Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: (02) 623 6143; website:
www.chaophrayaboat.co.th) runs an excursion every Sunday from Sathorn Pier departing at 1000.
TextPublic TransportThe public transport system within Bangkok is plentiful and cheap, although most visitors use the taxis or the three-wheeled
tuk tuks (see below). An
elevated monorail, called the Bangkok Transit System (tel: (02) 617 6000; website:
www.bts.co.th) but known as the
Skytrain, operates on two lines across the city. The Sukhumvit Line runs from On Nut along Sukhumvit Road to Siam Square, Phaya Thai Road, Victory Monument and Mo Chit. The Silom Line starts at Saphan Taksin and runs through Silom's business area, Siam Square, ending at the National Stadium. Since opening, the efficient Skytrain has vastly improved the time it takes to move around the city. The government has approved extension of the lines across the river and to the south, but there is no news on an opening date yet. Trains operate frequently 0600-0000. Tickets should be purchased from automatic ticket machines.
Passes can be bought for 20, 30 and 40 journeys, to be used within 30 days. A one-day pass is available for unlimited trips.
The Bangkok
Metro(tel: (02) 354 2000
or 624 5200; website:
www.bangkokmetro.co.th), opened in 2004, covers parts of the city not served by the Skytrain. Its one route starts at Hualampong station and finishes at Bang Sue in the north of the city. There are 18 stations in total with three intersecting with the Skytrain. The service operates 0600-0000. Tokens should be purchased from automatic ticket machines; fares depend on the distance travelled.
Passes can be bought for one day and three days.
The
Bangkok Mass Transit Authority (tel: (02) 246 0973; website:
www.bmta.co.th) runs a comprehensive and highly complex
bus system, which operates across the city 0500-2300. Fares depend on the distance travelled and the type of bus. The yellow and orange Euro II air-conditioned buses use fuel-efficient engines to attempt to reduce air pollution in the city. Microbuses have guaranteed seats. There is also a limited night service (cream and red buses). Bus route maps are widely available in hotels and bookshops.
TaxisTaxis can be hailed on the streets. If they are metered taxis, they will have a taxi meter sign on the roof. Visitors should check that the meter is turned on. If stuck in heavy traffic, the meter will start increasing by the minute. There is a minimum charge for the first couple of kilometres. There are also unmetered taxis where the fare must be agreed upon in advance. Passengers always have to pay for any road tolls incurred and should ensure they have plenty of small change to pay the taxi fare. Many people arrange a taxi through the concierge at their hotel where the rate is fixed and paid to the hotel before departure. It is also possible to hire a taxi for longer trips. In these cases, a fare should always be agreed in advance, even with metered taxis. Tipping is not expected but much appreciated.
Tuk tuk These three-wheeled taxis ply the streets and are ideal for short journeys. Fares must be negotiated before getting in and depend on the distance travelled. The number of tuk tuks in the city is decreasing but they can still be found around hotels and visitor attractions.
River taxis Numerous river taxis, operated by
Chao Phraya Express Boat (tel: (02) 623 6143; website:
www.chaophrayaboat.co.th), travel upstream and downstream on the Chao Phraya River, acting more like buses than taxis. Some special express boats operate only during the morning and evening rush hours with limited stops. The destinations/stops are indicated by different coloured flags. Other smaller boats shuttle from one side of the river to the other. A service operates from Sathorn Pier near the Saphan Taksin Skytrain station to 10 piers near major attractions and ends at Phra Arthit Pier. The service operates daily 0930-1600, with departures every 30 minutes, and a one-day unlimited pass costs B120.
Motorcycle taxis As a result of the gridlock experienced during the rush hour, motorcycle taxis are now popular as they can manoeuvre between the cars to reach their destination more quickly. It is compulsory for passengers to wear helmets, which are supplied by the driver. Drivers wear coloured tabards for identification and wait at road intersections.
Driving in the CityDriving in Bangkok requires a great deal of patience and a certain stubbornness. Few visitors attempt to hire a car, as good knowledge of the city is required to be able to drive around. The density of the traffic and the number of lanes mean that drivers always need to know which lane to be in. There are a number of expressways crossing the city with clearly signposted exits but traffic is often gridlocked during rush hour (0700-0900 and 1600-1800). Traffic direction and entry/exit locations change during the day without warning. Bangkok drivers, in particular taxis, buses and motorbikes, are very aggressive and unlikely to give way.
For those who do risk driving, many of the large shopping complexes and hotels have a car park attached and a convenient location is the Siam Centre on Rama I Road, which is open 24 hours.
Car HireMany visitors to Thailand now choose to hire a car, although few hire one within Bangkok because of the difficulties of moving through the constantly heavy traffic. Car hire companies vary but drivers must be at least 21 or 23 years old and have held a driving licence for one to two years. A national licence is required. It is compulsory to purchase Collision Damage Waiver and Theft Protection and these are generally included in the hire price. Payment must be made by credit card.
Avis have an office at 2/12-13 Wireless Road (tel: (02) 255 5300; website:
www.avisthailand.com), and
Budget at 19-23 Building A, Royal City Avenue, New Petchburi Road (tel: (02) 203 9294; website:
www.budget.co.th).
Bicycle HireOn Rattanakosin Island, footpaths have been converted into cycle paths, which pass places such as the Royal Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Bicycles can be hired from
Spice Roads (tel: (02) 712 5305; website:
www.spiceroads.com). Cash or credit card deposit of THB20,000 is required.
TextSuvarnabhumi Airport (BKK) Tel: (02) 132 1888/3888.
Website:
www2.airportthai.co.th Bangkok International Airport, located 30km (19 miles) east of the city centre, is operated by the
Airports Authority of Thailand. Opened in September 2006, to replace cramped Don Muang Airport, it is a major gateway to South-East Asia.
Approximate flight times to Bangkok: From London is 11 hours 20 minutes; from New York is 19 hours 25 minutes; from Los Angeles is 9 hours 5 minutes; from Toronto is 19 hours 40 minutes and from Sydney is 9 hours 20 minutes.
Airport facilities: These include 24-hour shopping, duty-free, restaurants, snack bars, postal services, bureaux de change, tourist information, hotel reservations, left luggage and medical service. Car hire companies include
Avis and
Budget.
Business facilities: There is a business centre and Internet facilities. There are several executive lounges and services including limousine hire.
Transport to the city: Taxis can be pre-paid for at the Arrivals Hall in the airport; visitors should expect to pay up to B1,200 to the city centre (journey time - 40-90 minutes) including road tolls. Airport Express buses operate four different routes into the city. Route AE1 goes to the Silom Road business district, AE2 goes to Banglamphu, AE3 goes to Sukhumvit and AE4 goes to Hualampong Railway Station (journey times - about 1 hour). An overhead city rail link is currently under construction and is expected to open in mid 2009.
The
State Railways of Thailand (tel: (02)
222 0175; website:
www.railway.co.th) operates four lines, all terminating in Bangkok. They run trains with air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned carriages. The main station in Bangkok is Hualampong, Rama IV Road (tel: (02) 223 3762
or 224 7788, advance bookings), which serves most of the long-distance routes. Facilities at the station include cafes, bureau de change, ATM, left luggage, post office and hotel reservation service. It is advisable to book tickets for long-distance trains in advance. Noi
station across the river in Thonburi (tel: (02) 411 3102) serves Kanchanaburi and a few destinations to the south so visitors should check which station to depart from.
Rail services: The four lines run from Chiang Mai in the north, Nong Khai in the northeast, Pattaya in the east and from Surat Thani and Butterworth (Malaysia) in the south. Direct trains take from 3 hours 40 minutes to Pattaya, 12 hours to Chiang Mai and 21 hours 10 minutes to Butterworth. The
Thailand Rail Passis available and is valid for 20 days in second and third class.
Transport to the city: Each station is served by numerous buses to the city. The subway system starts at Hualampong station and the National Stadium Skytrain station is relatively close.
TextThailand has a reasonable network of roads and highways throughout the country, designated by numbers. Traffic drives on the left and the wearing of seat belts is compulsory with on-the-spot fines for offenders. The speed limits are 60kph (37mph) in the city, 90kph (56mph) on main country roads and 120kph (74mph) on expressways. A national driving licence or International Driving Permit are required but long-term visitors staying over three months would need to obtain a Thai driving licence. The minimum age for driving is 18 years. It is illegal to drink and drive in Thailand.
Driving in Thailand is not for the faint-hearted as drivers tend to take risks and overtake on bends and hills, while buses and lorries drive as if they own the road. Driving at night is to be avoided as most heavy trucks travel at this time. The incidence of traffic accidents is high and, when foreigners are involved in accidents, it is always assumed that it is they who are at fault and they are expected to pay the costs. Having said all that, driving is the best way to see the country and reach out-of-the-way places.
Emergency breakdown service: There is no national breakdown service but all car hire companies will provide a telephone number to their clients for use in case of a breakdown or emergency.
Routes to the city: The national highways are all designated by numbers. National Highway 4 goes south to Hua Hin; National Highway 3 goes east to Pattaya; and National Highway 32 and 11 go to Phitsanulok.
Approximate driving times to Bangkok: From Hua Hin - 3 hours; Pattaya - 3 hours; Phitsanulok - 5 hours 30 minutes.
Coach services: Bangkok has three main bus terminals serving different areas of the country. Both air-conditioned and non-air-conditioned buses operate, but the air-conditioned ones tend to be faster and to make less stops en route. Buses south to Hua Hin, Phuket and the Thai-Malaysian border operate from the Southern Bus Terminal, Boromratchonnani (tel: (02) 435 1199). Buses to Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai in the north and Ubon Ratchathani and Nong Khai in the northeast operate from the North/northeastern Bus Terminal, Kampaeng Petch 2 Road (tel: (02) 9362 85266). Buses to Pattaya and Trat in the east operate from the Eastern Bus Terminal, Soi 40 Sukhumvit Road (tel: (02) 391 8097).
TextRoyal Grand Palace The Royal Grand Palace
is a glittering walled complex that houses several palaces, all highly decorated with tiles and ceramics. Building began in 1782 when Bangkok was founded as the capital of Thailand. The complex houses Wat Phra Kaeo, the holiest of all Thai temples, where the sacred Emerald Buddha rests, not covered in emeralds but jade. There is a strict dress code and visitors wearing shorts, mini-skirts, sleeveless shirts or flip-flops will be refused entry, although it is possible to hire trousers and plastic shoes.
Na Phra Lan Road
Tel: (02) 623 5500.
Website:
www.palaces.thai.netOpening hours: Daily 0830-1530.
Admission charge.
Vimanmek Palace Vimanmek Palace
is the world's largest building made entirely of golden teak. It used to be a royal summer retreat and was dismantled and rebuilt in Bangkok in 1900. The 81-room mansion stands in carefully manicured lawns, located close to the current royal residence, and contains 31 exhibition rooms. Visitors are not free to wander but must take a guided tour, which take place every 30 minutes. Highlights include Thailand's first indoor bathroom and the oldest typewriter with Thai characters. The dress code is the same as for the Royal Grand Palace.
Ratchawithi Road
Tel: (02) 628 6300.
Website:
www.palaces.thai.netOpening hours: Daily 0930-1515.
Admission charge (included with ticket to the Royal Grand Palace).
Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha) Wat Pho
is the oldest and largest temple in Bangkok and houses an enormous gold-plated Reclining Buddha, which is 46m (150ft) long and 15m (49ft) high. Today, the temple is also renowned for its teaching of herbal medicine and traditional massage. There is a strict dress code.
Thai Wang Road
Tel: (02) 225 9595.
Website:
www.watpho.comOpening hours: Daily 0830-1700.
Admission charge.
National Museum One of the largest and most comprehensive museums in the region, the National Museum
houses a vast collection of artefacts from the Neolithic period through to more recent periods. The building, begun in 1782, is fascinating in its own right, having been built in traditional Thai style. The museum is so large that it needs more than one visit, however if time is short, it must be spent in the lovely teak pavilion, which houses personal royal belongings. Free guided tours in English are given by volunteers at 0930 on Wednesdays and Thursdays and are highly recommended.
Na Phrathat Road
Tel: (02) 224 1333/1370.
Website:
www.thailandmuseum.comOpening hours: Wed-Sun 0900-1600.
Admission charge.
Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, the 17th-century Wat Arun
has a 79m- (259ft-) high tower decorated with multicoloured ceramic tiles, which makes it a landmark along the river. The effect of the tiles is best observed at a distance. The temple was the first home of the Emerald Buddha before it was transferred to Wat Phra Kaeo in 1785. There is a nightly light and sound show between October and May.
Arun Amarin Road
Tel: (02) 465 5640.
Website:
www.watarun.orgOpening hours: Daily 0730-1730.
Admission charge.
Jim Thompson Thai House Jim Thompson was an American who came to Bangkok after WWII and the Jim Thompson Thai House was his home until he mysteriously disappeared in Malaysia in 1967. He completely revived the Thai silk industry and his house, traditionally Thai in style, is now a museum showing his collection of Asian artefacts. The house is a complex of six traditional Thai teak structures brought to Bangkok from various parts of Thailand and its construction was completed in 1955. The house can only be visited on a guided tour.
6 Soi Kasemsan 2 Song, Rama I Road
Tel: (02) 216 7368.
Website:
www.jimthompsonhouse.comOpening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (last tour at 1630).
Admission charge.
Royal Barge National MuseumThe royal barges are rarely used by the royal family these days because of their age. A few of them are now preserved in the Royal Barge National Museum
on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya River. The eight long, narrow boats on display are intricately gilded and each need between 50 and 60 rowers to take their oars. The figure on the bow of each boat signifies whether it carries the King and Queen or other members of the royal family. The most important barge is the Suphannahong, exclusively used by the King.
Khlong Bangkok Noi
Tel: (02) 424 0004.
Website:
www.thailandmuseum.comOpening hours: Daily 0900-1700.
Admission charge.
Text| 1.00 GBP = 49.21 THB |
| 1.00 USD = 32.52 THB |
| 1.00 EUR = 40.75 THB |
| Currency conversion rates as of 18 July 2010 |
IntroductionMuch of Bangkok's nightlife is concentrated in the two red light districts of Bangkok - Patpong (between Silom and Surawong Roads) and Soi Cowboy (Sukhumvit Road), named after the first bar that opened here, the
Cowboy Bar. Bangkok's sex industry is as blatant and booming as ever. However, in addition to the numerous sex clubs and massage parlours, there are many excellent cocktail bars and restaurants and, at night, the area is always thronging with people.
Most venues are open all day and late into the night, although bars and clubs are supposed to close at 0200. Sometimes there is an admission fee but this usually includes one or two drinks. The dress code is very relaxed, although a few of the nightclubs do enforce smarter dress. The minimum drinking age is now 20 and all air-conditioned bars are smoke free.
As in any city, nightlife venues come and go and news of the latest hotspots can be found in the city's listings magazine, The Big Chilli (website:
www.bigchilli.com) and Bangkok 101
.
Bars: The
Bull's Head, 33/1 Sukhumvit Road, is popular with expats. It is a British-style pub, with regular quiz and theme nights. Irish pubs are popular in most cities in the world and the busy
Molly Malone's, Convent Road, Silom is no exception.
The Office is an Aussie-run sports bar on Sukhumvit Soi 33 showing live sports from the UK and Australia. To see a different perspective of Bangkok while enjoying an aperitif, try the open-air
Vertigo bar on the 62nd floor of the
Banyan Tree Hotel, 21/100 South Sathon Road.
Clubs: Concept CM2(website:
www.cm2bkk.com), a huge disco and bar in the basement of the
Novotel Hotelon Siam Square, continues to be very popular and now has the B@S sports bar. The amazing light and sound system and ostentatious art deco-style interior of
Narcissus, 112 Soi 23 Sukhumvit Road (website:
www.narcissusclubbangkok.com) attracts the smart set keen on house, trance and techno. The outrageous
Bed Supper Clubat 26 Soi 11 Sukhumvit Road (
www.bedsupperclub.com) has beds decorating this all-white cylinder shaped club, where you can chill before entering the
Bed Bar to listen to house, hip hop and bhangra. Just down the road, the hangout for trendy locals and expats is the stylish
Q Bar, 34 Soi 11 Sukhumvit Road (website:
www.qbarbangkok.com), which also imports top international DJs. Both clubs offer a range of music from house to hip hop.
Live Music: Tokyo Joe's (website:
www.tokyojoesbkk.com), 25/9 Sukhumvit Soi 26 hosts nightly blues bands with a Sunday jamming session.
Saxophone Pub, 3/8 Victory Monument, Phayathai Road (website:
www.saxophonepub.com), has great acoustics, a lively atmosphere and a variety of live music including funk, jazz, blues and ska. Classy
Spasso, in the Grand Hyatt Erawan, Rajadamri Road, is an ideal place to dance to the sounds of top international acts playing retro, pop and top 40 music.
The Bamboo Barin the upmarket hotel The Oriental
(see
Hotels), is an intimate, refined club with an excellent reputation for its guest jazz bands.
Brick Bar on Khao San Road (website:
www.brickbarkhaosan.com) attracts a fun crowd for the live ska and reggae.
RestaurantsRestaurantsThe selected restaurants have been listed alphabetically within five categories: Gastronomic, Business, Trendy, Budget and Personal Recommendations.
These restaurants have been further divided into four different pricing categories:
$$$$ (over ฿2,500)
$$$ (฿2,000 to ฿2,500)
$$ (฿1,500 to ฿2,000)
$ (under ฿1,500)
The prices quoted above are for an average three-course meal for one person and for a half bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent; they do not include VAT or service charge, unless stated otherwise.
There is VAT of 7% added to restaurant bills in Bangkok and this is usually added to the bill at the end. In addition, many restaurants also add a service charge of around 10%. Where this is not added, visitors should tip around 10%. All air-conditioned restaurants are now smoke free.
GastronomicBaan Khanitha
This restaurant, located off Sukhumvit Road, has won the Bangkok Dining and Entertainment Award for ‘Best Thai Restaurant' for nine consecutive years and its popularity is proof of this, so it is essential to book. The converted villa has stylish and typically Thai décor, a mainly wooden interior with antiques and works of art that create a very calm atmosphere. The exquisite presentation of the food is as stylish as the interior. Set menus are available for two people.
36/1 Soi 23 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 258 4181.
Website: www.baan-khanitha.com
Price: $$$
Breeze
Sweeping views from this smart second floor restaurant, reached by crossing a dramatic illuminated sky bridge, make this an ideal venue to impress. Dine al fresco or in the contemporary interior on a menu of Asian-style seafood. The Dim Sum lunch is popular with business people.
State Tower, 1055 Silom Road
Tel: (02) 624 9555.
Website: www.breezebkk.com
Price: $$$
Le Normandie
This small, plush restaurant with a rarefied atmosphere serves up what has to be the best French cuisine in Bangkok. Located in the original part of The Orientalhotel, the restaurant boasts floor-to-ceiling windows with unrivalled views over the Chao Phraya River. The menu, prepared by a three Michelin star chef, is extensive. An excellent choice is baked red snapper in puff pastry. No lunch Sunday. There is a strict dress code.
The Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue
Tel: (02) 659 9000.
Website: www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok
Price: $$$$
Nippon-Tei
One of the best Japanese restaurants in the city, the classic interior is often full of Japanese diners - always a good sign. There are eleven Japanese-style Tatami rooms for between two and 60 people as well as a sushi counter and teppan grill counter. The set lunches of Donburi rice with a choice of toppings are good value.
161 Nantawan Building, Ratchadamri Road
Tel: (02) 252 9438.
Website: www.nippontei.com
Price: $$$
Rang Mahal
This restaurant, on the rooftop of the Rembrandt Hotel(see Hotels), with superb views of the city, serves gourmet Indian food at its best. The décor is sumptuous with Indian wall hangings and plush colours and the atmosphere very tranquil with Indian musicians playing unobtrusively in the background. The food is all excellent but a particularly fine dish is jheenga kadhai, shrimp cooked in a wok with oriental spices. Sunday brunch is very popular.
Rembrandt Hotel, 19 Soi 18 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 261 7100.
Website: www.rembrandtbkk.com
Price: $$$
BusinessAubergine
Located in a charming house on a quiet soi off Silom Road, this cozy but classy restaurant serves classic French cuisine such as escargots with garlic sauce complemented by an impressive wine list. A good value set lunch is served Monday to Friday.
71/1 Sala Daeng Soi 1/1
Tel: (02) 234 2226.
Website: www.aubergine.in.th
Price: $$
Ban Chiang
Ban Chiangis a restored wooden house with lush garden (lit up at night) in the Silom area, serving up traditional Thai food. The magnificent selection of food is beautifully presented. The restaurant is popular with businesspeople at lunchtimes but the simple, classic décor makes it ideal for a special evening meal.
14 Soi Sri-vieng, Surasak Road
Tel: (02) 236 7045 or 266 6994.
Price: $$
Harmonique
Situated fairly close to the river and the famed hotel The Oriental, the family-run Harmonique is incredibly welcoming. The restaurant is located in an old house, dating back more than 100 years, with a lush garden, Thai antiques and fans. The fantastic starters are particularly recommended, including the steamed shrimp in wine sauce. A selection of starters for two people is available. Closed Sunday.
22 Charoenkrung 34
Tel: (02) 237 8175.
Price: $$
Le Dalat Indochine
Down from the busy Sukhumvit Road, the upmarket Le DalatIndochineserves probably the best Vietnamese food in Bangkok. This award-winning restaurant is located in an old house in a small, lush garden, and dining here is really a delightful experience. The elegant interior has a colonial feel and photos and memorabilia cover the walls. It is deservedly well known for its seafood particularly crispy fried crab fish. Its equally superb sister restaurant, Le Dalat, is just across the road.
14Soi 23 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 661 7967.
Website: www.ledalatindochinebkk.com
Price: $$
Zanotti
The simple but stylish décor contributes to a relaxed ambience in this Italian restaurant off the Silom Road. The restaurant appeals more to a business clientele rather than romantic diners as it can be quite busy in the evenings. There is an extensive menu put together by the Italian chef, including tasty Tuscan pizzas.
21/1 Saladaeng Colonnade Soi Saladaeng, Silom Road
Tel: (02) 636 0002/0266.
Website: www.zanotti-ristorante.com
Price: $$$
TrendyBacchus
One of the places to be seen in Bangkok, this smart multi-level restaurant and wine bar has an impressive wine cellar. Relax after a dinner of fresh Andaman tuna steak by reclining on the top floor which has a glass roof with urban night views.
20/6-7 Ruam Rudee, Ploenchit
Tel: (02) 650 8986.
Website: www.bacchus.tv
Price: $$
The Barbican
In a quiet soi off the Silom Road, The Barbicanis a music cafe with a small contemporary area with stools and tables downstairs and a simple, teak restaurant upstairs. Tapas-size snacks are available, as well as Thai food. There is a good-value three-course set lunch. No lunch at weekends in the restaurant.
9/4-5 Soi Thaniya, Silom Road
Tel: (02) 234 3590.
Website: www.greatbritishpub.com
Price: $
Blue Elephant
Housed in an elegant old colonial building, with a Thai restaurant, bar and a cooking school on the top floor. The food is innovative and presentation is delightful; it tastes good as well. Be brave and try the durian cheesecake.
233 South Sathorn Road, Kwaeng Yannawa
Tel: (02) 673 9353.
Website: www.blueelephant.com
Price: $$
Eat Me
A magnet for trendy and sophisticated diners, the Australian Pacific Rim-inspired menu has innovative dishes such as beetroot carpaccio with walnuts and ricotta. The restaurant is multi-leveled with an open-air terrace and regularly hosts changing exhibitions of photography and paintings. Closed lunchtimes.
1/6 Soi Pipat 2, Silom
Tel: (02) 238 0931.
Website: www.eatmerestaurant.com
Price: $$$
Jesters
Located in the Peninsula Hotel, this restaurant over two levels is a great place to dine, with fun contemporary décor and stunning views of the Chao Phraya River. It serves an eclectic mix of Mediterranean food, with dishes such as PigeonAndre Malraux, originally created in Paris. No children 12 years or under. No lunch.
Peninsula Bangkok Hotel, 333 Charoennakorn Road
Tel: (02) 861 2888.
Website: www.peninsula.com
Price: $$$
BudgetBlack Swan
At this British pub, run by a Yorkshireman, mementoes of Sheffield cover the wood-panelled walls and sports events are shown on a large plasma screen. Traditional British pub grub is served including fish and chips and bangers and mash. Fish flown in from Scotland is served on a Friday.
326/8-9 Sukhumvit Road
Tel: (02) 229 4542.
Website: www.blackswanbkk.com
Price: $
Bourbon Street
A longstanding favourite, this friendly restaurant serves hearty American Cajun and Creole food. Tuck into jambalaya or gumbo or try the all-you-can-eat Mexican buffet on Tuesday nights. Try raw or char-broiled oysters in the Oyster Bar. Open for breakfast.
29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Washington Square
Tel: (02) 259 0328/9.
Website: www.bourbonstbkk.com
Price: $
Mango Tree
Tucked in a quiet soi between the busy Silom and Surawongse Roads, Mango Treeis made up of two old houses, with intriguing photos of old Bangkok on the wall and a collection of old cameras. Although cheap, this restaurant still serves fine Thai food. The dishes are influenced from all corners of Thailand and the spicy green and red curries are particularly tasty.
37 Soi Tantawan, Surawongse Road
Tel: (02) 236 2820.
Website: www.coca.com/mangotree
Price: $$
O'Reillys Irish Pub
This traditional Irish pub on the Silom Road has a comfortable bar with a great atmosphere. The floor is wooden and there are photographs of traditional Irish scenes adorning the walls. A good selection of Thai and European food is on offer, including some pub classics. Happy hour from 1600-1900 every day.
62/1-4 Silom Road
Tel: (02) 632 7515.
Price: $
Rasayana Raw Food Cafe
After being rejuvenated and detoxed at the Rasayana Retreat, treat yourself to some raw food, rich in vitamins and minerals, in their cafe. Try the marinated eggplants, zucchine and avocado sauce under a shady tree in the delightful courtyard. The cafe closes at 2000 and it is best to make a reservation.
57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39
Tel: (02) 662 4803.
Website: www.rasayanaretreat.com
Price: $
Personal RecommendationsDeck by the River
An intimate restaurant on decks right by the Chao Phraya River with Rattanakosin as a backdrop. A must-try are the grilled tiger prawns in garlic. High tea is an ideal time to watch the sun go down and weekend brunch is particularly popular.
36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong, Maharat Road
Tel: (02) 221 9158.
Website: www.arunresidence.com
Price: $$
TextBangkok is arguably the best place in Asia for shopping and visitors will be spoilt for choice with the extensive shopping malls, department stores, small shops and markets. The city is also great for bargain hunters and haggling with street vendors is to be expected.
Ploenchit and Rama I roads have several glitzy shopping malls along them with designer brands, restaurants and cinemas. The
River City Shopping Complex, adjacent to the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel, has two floors devoted to antiques. Prices are fixed in most department stores but they do frequently offer discounts to interested buyers. Sukhumvit Road has a wide range of silk and gift shops, as well as many tailors.
Most visitors will head to the many
street markets for their colourful atmosphere and lower prices. The Sukhumvit Road area has a street market that runs most of the day but is busiest at night. Dozens of stalls sell clothes, bags, silk items and gifts. Apart from the colourful nightlife in Patpong, the area also has a bustling night market where clothes and souvenirs are a real bargain.
The weekend market at
Chatuchak Park, on Phaholyothin Road, sells virtually everything that Thailand makes or grows, such as furniture, carpets, ceramics, watches, clothes, food and flowers. The
Suan Lum night bazaar at the intersection of Rama IV and Wireless Roads is very popular with thousands of stalls selling gifts, clothes, handicrafts and jewellery. However, attempts are being made to close the market and this could happen at any time.
Chinatown is full of gold shops and the nearby cloth market at Phahurat has a huge range of superb fabrics.
Woeng Nakhon Kasem, better known as the ‘Thieves' Market', located between Yaowarat Road and New Road, sells antique porcelain, copperware and furniture. Good buys to be found throughout the city include silk items, silver and gold, gems (rubies and sapphires are indigenous to Thailand), pearls, painted umbrellas and fans, ceramics, wickerwork, woodcarvings and leather goods. It is also an ideal place to have clothes made and the quality is of a high standard.
Many stores are open 12 hours a day, seven days a week and the street markets have even longer hours, although some are busier in the mornings and others in the evenings.
A
Thailand Duty-Free Shop is located in the Downtown Duty Free Mall, King Power Complex, Rangnam Road. Tourists can pay for their purchases here and collect them at the airport immediately prior to departure from the country. Value Added Tax (7%) can be refunded on goods bought in shops labelled ‘VAT refund for tourists', where there is a minimum transaction of ฿2,000 including VAT. VAT Refund Application for Tourists forms are completed at the time of purchase and it is necessary to show one's passport. Cash refunds (minimum ฿5,000) can be obtained in the airport departure hall and often the goods purchased must also be shown.
Sightseeing OverviewThe sprawling city of Bangkok is full of interesting attractions for tourists, but the heavily congested traffic means it is difficult to cover a lot of ground in a single day. Sightseeing should be selective if time is short or restricted to one area per day, although the Skytrain and Metro do help visitors travel across town more quickly.
An excellent way to appreciate the city's layout is to go to the
observation deck on the 77th floor of the
Baiyoke Sky Hotel, one of the tallest hotels in the world.
Many of the main places of interest, such as the
Royal Grand Palace,
Wat Pho and the
National Museum, are to the east of the Chao Phraya River (west of the north-south railway line) in an area called
Rattanakosin Island, which is also home to many hotels. However, some visitors may stay to the east of the railway line in the
Sukhumvit Road area, where there is excellent shopping, nightlife and tourist sights, such as
Suan Pakkard Palace Museumand
Jim Thompson Thai House.
Apart from the major sights (see
Key Attractions), which are all ‘must-see', there are numerous other attractions, including over 400 temples. To the north of the Royal Grand Palace is
Sanam Luang, which is a huge public area surrounded by old tamarind trees. This area is used for many ceremonies throughout the year, such as the Ploughing Ceremony, as well as being a popular place for kite-flying and just passing the time.
The revamped
Museum of Siam, on Sanam Chai Road, traces the history of Thailand up to the modern day using interactive exhibits.
Siam Ocean World is an aquarium attraction with a variety of deep ocean habitats and the opportunity to dive with sharks.
Chinatown is a lively area located between the river and Hualampong railway station. The area is fascinating for its maze of narrow lanes and open-fronted shops selling a cornucopia of items. On Yaowarat Road,
Wat Trai Mit houses a gleaming solid gold Buddha, 3m (10ft) high and weighing over five tons. Close to Chinatown is
Phahurat, the main Indian area, crammed with colourful fabric
shops and excellent restaurants.
On Si Ayutthaya Road, in an elegant area full of government buildings and the current royal residence, is
Wat Benjamabopit, mainly built with Italian marble and a mix of European and Thai architecture.
Lumphini Park is a haven of tranquillity in the heart of the city, dotted with pavilions and two small lakes.
For visitors who do not have time to travel in the rest of Thailand, the
Ancient City is an open-air museum with full-size and scaled-down
replicas of famous buildings, monuments and temples from all over the country. It covers an area of 112 hectares (280 acres) and is 33km (20 miles) southeast of the city centre.
Well worth a visit is
Bang Pa In, 60km (37 miles) north of Bangkok, the former summer residence of the royal family in the 17th century, which is a collection of buildings reflecting Oriental and European influences.
Whether visiting palaces or temples, it is important to dress respectfully. Entry can and will be refused if this rule is not followed.
Tourist InformationTourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) First Floor, 1600 New Phetburi Road
Makkasan, Rajatevee
Tel: (02) 250 5500.
Website:
www.tourismthailand.org Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1630.
The TAT Call Centre
(tel: 1672) is open daily 0800-2000. The tourist police provide 24-hour assistance for complaints and emergencies through the toll-free hotline (tel: 1155).
TextNew Year's DayJanuary
Celebrations traditionally begin with merit-making in the mornings, when Buddhists take gifts of flowers, incense or donations to the temples, followed by parties and entertainment around Sanam Luang for the rest of the day.
Bangkok Fringe FestivalJanuary
Innovative theatre productions.
Patravadi Theatre
Website:
www.patravaditheatre.comMakha PujaFebruary/March
Buddhist Holy day featuring various day and night candlelit ceremonies.
Temples around the city
International Kite FestivalMarch/April
Kite fighting and demonstrations.
Sanam Luang
International Bangkok Motor ShowMarch/April
Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre
Website:
www.grandprixgroup.comBangkok International Book Fair
March/April
Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre
Website:
www.bangkokibf.comSongkran (Thai New Year)
April
Religious ceremonies and public festivities involving lots of water.
Throughout the city
Royal Ploughing CeremonyMay
Celebration of the start of the rice-growing season.
Sanam Luang
Asarnha Puja Day/Khao Phansa DayJuly
Commemorates Buddha's first sermon and the beginning of Buddhist Lent.
Temples throughout the city
Queen's Birthday CelebrationsAugust
Public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings.
Throughout the city
Bangkok International Film Festival
September
Throughout the city
Website:
www.bangkokfilm.orgYaowarat Food FestivalSeptember/October
Taste and watch the preparation of Chinese, Thai, international and vegetarian food.
Chinatown
Chulalongkorn DayOctober
Public holiday in memory of Rama V, best seen at the Equestrian Statue in the Royal Plaza.
Bangkok Marathon
November
Sanam Chai
Website:
www.thailandmarathon.orgKing's Birthday CelebrationsDecember
Public holiday with display of lights decorating public buildings.
Throughout the city
TextWalking Tours Although Bangkok is not really the best city for much exploration on foot,
Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 660 7000; website:
www.diethelmtravel.com) offers a walking tour of Chinatown, called ‘Bangkok Way of Life', which lasts three hours 30 minutes.
Bus Tours World Travel Service (tel: (02) 233 5900; website:
www.wts-thailand.com) runs small group tours with free pick-ups from numerous hotels throughout Bangkok. Tours can be booked direct or through the tour desk in some hotels. Half-day city tours include the ‘Royal Grand Palace Tour' and the ‘Temples Tour'.
Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 660 7000; website:
www.diethelmtravel.com) offers similar tours.
Bicycle Tours Every day at 1300 there is a three-hour bicycle tour of Bang Kra Jao, a wilderness area with small villages, temples and jungle, just across the Chao Phraya River. The starting point is the Shell gas station on Rama 4 Road and it is organised by
Spice Roads (tel: (02) 712 5305; website:
www.bangkokbikerides.com) and the charge includes the hire of a bicycle, helmet, water and snacks.
Spice Roads also offers other day tours.
Boat Tours Bangkok is laced with
khlongs (canals) and life alongside them
is far removed from the hustle and bustle of downtown Bangkok. An ideal way to see this side of Bangkok is a boat trip, passing tiny temples, orchards, orchid farms and typical houses on stilts. These are organised by
World Travel Service (tel: (02) 233 5900; website:
www.wts-thailand.com) and
Diethelm Travel (tel: (02) 660 7000; website:
www.diethelmtravel.com). The tours on offer from
Diethelm include a visit to the floating market at Damnoan Saduak.